Griot Home

Raymarine ST1000+ Tillerpilot Installation

  
The remote control holder is mounted on the cabin aft bulkhead, so that it can be grabbed by reaching in through the open companionway. 

Hmmm... wonder if I need to worry about any impact on compass deviation - that's it right next door.
A small project box was used to mount the serial (GPS NMEA data) and SeaTalk (remote control) connectors.  Power connections are made at the terminal block mounted on the project box.  SeaTalk and NMEA leads are hardwired into the connectors through a strain-relief fitting in the side of the box. 

To economize on the number of conductors used in the harness, signal-grounds were run on the negative power lead.  Also, since there are positive connections here, the terminal strip will be covered.

Note that the GPS portion of the installation currently uses a serial/power cable with separate connectors for data and power.  The GPS is powered through the cigarette-style outlet.  This will eventually be replaced by a custom-build serial-style cable connector through which the GPS will also be powered.  When this is one, an inline fuse will be added to the box for GPS power.

Clearly, it's time do some scrubbing in here. 

This photo shows the the ST1000+ setup for operation.  Note that the unit's actuator is in the powered-down/parked position.
The cantilever mount with the tillerpilot removed
The cantilever mounting flange with the mounting shaft removed
The tillerpilot's bulkhead connector mounted on the aft vertical surface of the cockpit starboard combing pocket.

 

As long as we're here with the camera...

  
This is where I "store" my spare 1/4-inch quick-pull pins.  This way, uninitiated crew (and occasionally the skipper) avoid crashing to the cabin sole after leaning on the table corner.

Note, however, that any force placed on the table edge is now transmitted to and borne by the table mounting screws and cabin liner.  They were not intended for this shear load, so I still try to avoid leaning on the table.

Installation note:  I drilled the holes slightly undersize and then opened them up with a tapered repairman's ream for something just on the loose side of a "light-dive" fit.  That is, the pins take a little effort and jiggling to line up and insert, but there is zero play when they are in place.  Hopefully, this will prevent fretting between the pins and the brackets.

Comments or questions?  Email me